"My challenge is to create something that will never go out of style." AHLEM Designer Interview
2021.12.26 / OTHERS
At Dice&Dice, we will hold the first pop-up event in Fukuoka for the eyewear brand "AHLEM," which combines classic styles that are not influenced by trends with innovative design, from January 21 (Friday) to January 24 (Monday), 2022.
Born in Paris and currently based in Los Angeles, AHLEM.
Please watch the interview with Mr. Hattori, the sales manager of GLOBE SPECS, the agency handling AHLEM, about his dedication and beliefs surrounding eyewear.
Mr. Hattori (H): You originally worked in the fashion industry with brands like Miu Miu and Acne, right? What made you become an eyewear designer?
AHLEM (A): I've loved glasses since I was a child. While working in the fashion industry, I was able to see everything from production to sales and PR, and it was comfortable for me.
When I left Miu Miu, I thought it was time to do what I had always wanted to do. That's really how it felt. So, I pursued the path of eyewear.
H: What aspect of eyewear interests you?
A: I've always used glasses myself, and it felt like a part of my DNA. When I was a child, my mother would buy me new glasses, watches, and cameras every year as holiday gifts before summer.
Glasses have always been a part of me.
So, it's hard to convey when I started wanting to work in eyewear or why I started. It was really just the right timing.
H: Designing eyewear felt very natural for you, didn't it? What do you think represents the identity of AHLEM?
A: I think it represents a calm presence and understated elegance. AHLEM's eyewear doesn't overpower the face. There are no excessive decorations or details; they are very delicate, smart, and functional. I believe once you buy them, you will love them for the rest of your life.
This is what I call luxury. For example, when you buy an Hermès Birkin or a Rolex watch, you think of them as lifelong items, right?
I feel the same way about eyewear. I am someone who is at the opposite end of excess and overdoing it. I dislike items that have limited opportunities or durations of use.
Because at some point in life,
"This is a bit too much,"
I think and stop using it.
What we are doing is creating eyewear that is carefully crafted by the best artisans. And it must also be comfortable.
Not too heavy, not too light, durable, and beautiful. I want to create eyewear that allows you to not think about unnecessary things when you hold it.
H: I want to talk about the artisans... I'm curious how you got to know the artisans without any experience in the eyewear industry.
A: That's right. But not having any experience means anything is possible, right?
Since I have no experience, I don't know what is impossible. There are no answers.
Everyone said it was difficult, but I thought I would give it a try. There are no limits.
The only thing I limit is what I wear and what my husband wears. I choose things that can be used for a long time.
When creating something, the most important thing for me is durability.
Will you wear Champ de Mars for 20 years?
Will you wear Rue Bosquet for 20 years?
If so, we win.
But if I make glasses that are too excessive and you stop wearing them,
I want to avoid that. My challenge is to create something that will never go out of style.
H: I want to ask about the new technology of AHLEM.
The concave bridge is something you developed for the first time, right?
Lille, Thatre, and Doominique are really wonderful.
A: They are truly amazing frames.
H: Is this a special technique?
A: Yes. It's very complex. It's really challenging. I think it's a very difficult technique.
Because to create a concave bridge, you have to finish the frame and then cut it again.
And polishing it is done by hand. If you make a mistake, that's it.
The reason I wanted to create a concave bridge is that I wanted to create a new aspect of the bridge.
Because the bridge is the most complex part and comes right in the middle of the face.
If the bridge is too big, too small, or too flashy, it's in the middle, and no one will wear it.
I wanted to create something new, but basically, only the wearer would know about it.
You can't tell just by looking. And the frame itself also becomes lighter.
Since part of the material is shaved off, the frame becomes lighter.
I wanted to explore how light we could make it while still using 8mm material.
H: I see. It looks very thick and heavy.
A: But it's not.
It's very light. For example, it's lighter than Rue Bosquet.
It's really light. The reason I want to explore lightness is that imagine using very thick lenses.
I want to maintain lightness while keeping thick lenses with 8mm material.
Not too heavy, so it doesn't cause headaches. So, while I want to explore new things in building products,
I always try to keep the core part. That means it has an 8mm thickness, with parts that are partially thin and thick,
and the center uses less material.
The concave bridge curves inward.
The temples curve outward, and the bridge curves inward.
H: It looks like a sculpture.
A: That's exactly right.
H: I have a question about the new acetate colors.
Recently, especially wonderful transparent colors have been announced. Were these specially made by the supplier?
A: We developed them in collaboration with Matsukeri.
Dry Pampas and Thymelight are AHLEM exclusive colors.
H: They are exclusive! That's very important.
AHLEM exclusive color Dry Pampas
AHLEM exclusive color Thymelight
A: There are more.
We developed another color for SILMO. New colors will be announced soon.
Several other exclusive colors will also be announced. I'm really enjoying them, and they are very nice colors.
Regarding the transparent colors, there are 2 or 3 more exclusive colors,
so that's a total of 5 colors.
H: I see. Nowadays, everyone is wearing masks, so transparent colors are great because they don't get too heavy.
Our PR woman is wearing the exact same ones as me.
A: I love them too. Thymelight from Le Marais is really nice.
It's my favorite.
H: Is Thymelight referring to mint?
A: No. It's thyme.
You know the herb, right? It's the one you put in pasta and such. That's what Thymelight means.
H: Dry Pampas is derived from a plant, right?
A: That's right.
Dry Pampas is really just that. If you look at Dry Pampas, it has almost the same color.
H: I could imagine from the pictures. You created a very beautiful color.
And then there's Dustlight. This color has been added.
AHLEM exclusive color Dustlight
A: Dustlight is a color I love. Don't you think it's a very nice color?
It's not an exclusive color, but... wait! Dustlight might also be an exclusive color.
There are so many that I get confused. Haha.
I think Dustlight is something we conceived, but I'll check and let you know later.
H: It looks similar to pink, but you didn't say it's pink, right?
A: I didn't say that.
Because it's a powder color. When you use a puff on your face, the powder flies in the light.
That's when that color becomes visible. My grandmother used to use a powder puff.
When she used it, the powder changed to that color in the light.
H: I see.
A: Did you understand? My grandmother used something close to skin color.
Since her skin wasn't that white, she used something pinkish.
H: That's where the name comes from. I finally understand.
H: Looking to the future, what is the next step for AHLEM?
A: Another very important thing we are working on is,
you know plastic bags, right? The plastic bags for putting glasses in.
That's already over. No more. They are not environmentally friendly and are disposable.
From now on, it will change to Peva. It might be here.
Oh, I didn't have it.
It's still in France. I'm sorry.
Anyway, it will change to Peva. Peva is an environmentally friendly material.
You can put food in it, as well as snacks, pencils, cables, etc. All glasses can be put in Peva.
Customers can take that bag home and reuse it. For us, reuse is the most important thing.
It's about sustainability.
H: Thank you. It's about time.
Let's meet again soon.
A: See you again. Thank you.
-END-
For the schedule and details of AHLEM POP-UP SHOP at Dice&Dice, click here.
Youtube
【Part 1】 The cool Venice Beach vibe expressed by the eyewear brand "AHLEM" and the relaxed sophistication of a Parisian.
【Part 2】 The cool Venice Beach vibe expressed by the eyewear brand "AHLEM" and the relaxed sophistication of a Parisian.
"AHLEM POP-UP SHOP at Dice&Dice"
Period: January 21 (Friday) to January 24 (Monday), 2022
Venue: Dice&Dice
Address: 2-1-43 Imaizumi, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka Prefecture, DXD bldg 1F
Phone number: 092-722-4877
Business hours: 13:00 to 18:00
Ahlem Manai-Platt / Ahlem Manai-Platt
A designer based in LA, originally from France, AHLEM transitioned into the world of eyewear where functionality and fashion coexist after experience with brands like Acne and Miu Miu. Her approach to design is heavily influenced by the Bauhaus movement of the early 20th century, aiming to integrate art into daily life, and is never swayed by trends. She always aims for simple, comfortable, and beautiful designs. From the prototype stage at her debut, her designs were highly praised by the buyers at Colette in Paris, leading to their introduction. After receiving acclaim from renowned stores in LA, such as Fred Segal and other famous eyewear shops, she decided to move to LA, where she had long admired. Pursuing simplicity and beauty, functionality, and subtly integrated delicate details, her designs embody the spirit of a French woman combined with the relaxed atmosphere of LA. AHLEM, who loves Paris, draws strong inspiration from the architecture and people of Paris, naming her models after streets and areas in Paris. Each piece is meticulously handcrafted by artisans in Oyonnax, a region famous for eyewear production in France.
GLOBE SPECS / GLOBE SPECS
GLOBE SPECS opened its first store, "GLOBE SPECS Shibuya," in 1998 as a shop introducing various eyewear brands from around the world. Currently, it operates stores in Shibuya, Daikanyama, and Kyoto. While continuing to pursue the basic quality and technology of eyewear that allows for comfortable viewing and wearing, they also propose elements of "fun, joy, and fashion." They contract with brands from around the world, including the US and Europe, and also act as the general import agency in Japan. GLOBE SPECS is a company that actively incorporates young and new brands if they share a worldview, continually challenging the possibilities of eyewear.
Born in Paris and currently based in Los Angeles, AHLEM.
Please watch the interview with Mr. Hattori, the sales manager of GLOBE SPECS, the agency handling AHLEM, about his dedication and beliefs surrounding eyewear.
Mr. Hattori (H): You originally worked in the fashion industry with brands like Miu Miu and Acne, right? What made you become an eyewear designer?
AHLEM (A): I've loved glasses since I was a child. While working in the fashion industry, I was able to see everything from production to sales and PR, and it was comfortable for me.
When I left Miu Miu, I thought it was time to do what I had always wanted to do. That's really how it felt. So, I pursued the path of eyewear.
H: What aspect of eyewear interests you?
A: I've always used glasses myself, and it felt like a part of my DNA. When I was a child, my mother would buy me new glasses, watches, and cameras every year as holiday gifts before summer.
Glasses have always been a part of me.
So, it's hard to convey when I started wanting to work in eyewear or why I started. It was really just the right timing.
H: Designing eyewear felt very natural for you, didn't it? What do you think represents the identity of AHLEM?
A: I think it represents a calm presence and understated elegance. AHLEM's eyewear doesn't overpower the face. There are no excessive decorations or details; they are very delicate, smart, and functional. I believe once you buy them, you will love them for the rest of your life.
This is what I call luxury. For example, when you buy an Hermès Birkin or a Rolex watch, you think of them as lifelong items, right?
I feel the same way about eyewear. I am someone who is at the opposite end of excess and overdoing it. I dislike items that have limited opportunities or durations of use.
Because at some point in life,
"This is a bit too much,"
I think and stop using it.
What we are doing is creating eyewear that is carefully crafted by the best artisans. And it must also be comfortable.
Not too heavy, not too light, durable, and beautiful. I want to create eyewear that allows you to not think about unnecessary things when you hold it.
H: I want to talk about the artisans... I'm curious how you got to know the artisans without any experience in the eyewear industry.
A: That's right. But not having any experience means anything is possible, right?
Since I have no experience, I don't know what is impossible. There are no answers.
Everyone said it was difficult, but I thought I would give it a try. There are no limits.
The only thing I limit is what I wear and what my husband wears. I choose things that can be used for a long time.
When creating something, the most important thing for me is durability.
Will you wear Champ de Mars for 20 years?
Will you wear Rue Bosquet for 20 years?
If so, we win.
But if I make glasses that are too excessive and you stop wearing them,
I want to avoid that. My challenge is to create something that will never go out of style.
H: I want to ask about the new technology of AHLEM.
The concave bridge is something you developed for the first time, right?
Lille, Thatre, and Doominique are really wonderful.
A: They are truly amazing frames.
H: Is this a special technique?
A: Yes. It's very complex. It's really challenging. I think it's a very difficult technique.
Because to create a concave bridge, you have to finish the frame and then cut it again.
And polishing it is done by hand. If you make a mistake, that's it.
The reason I wanted to create a concave bridge is that I wanted to create a new aspect of the bridge.
Because the bridge is the most complex part and comes right in the middle of the face.
If the bridge is too big, too small, or too flashy, it's in the middle, and no one will wear it.
I wanted to create something new, but basically, only the wearer would know about it.
You can't tell just by looking. And the frame itself also becomes lighter.
Since part of the material is shaved off, the frame becomes lighter.
I wanted to explore how light we could make it while still using 8mm material.
H: I see. It looks very thick and heavy.
A: But it's not.
It's very light. For example, it's lighter than Rue Bosquet.
It's really light. The reason I want to explore lightness is that imagine using very thick lenses.
I want to maintain lightness while keeping thick lenses with 8mm material.
Not too heavy, so it doesn't cause headaches. So, while I want to explore new things in building products,
I always try to keep the core part. That means it has an 8mm thickness, with parts that are partially thin and thick,
and the center uses less material.
The concave bridge curves inward.
The temples curve outward, and the bridge curves inward.
H: It looks like a sculpture.
A: That's exactly right.
H: I have a question about the new acetate colors.
Recently, especially wonderful transparent colors have been announced. Were these specially made by the supplier?
A: We developed them in collaboration with Matsukeri.
Dry Pampas and Thymelight are AHLEM exclusive colors.
H: They are exclusive! That's very important.
AHLEM exclusive color Dry Pampas
AHLEM exclusive color Thymelight
A: There are more.
We developed another color for SILMO. New colors will be announced soon.
Several other exclusive colors will also be announced. I'm really enjoying them, and they are very nice colors.
Regarding the transparent colors, there are 2 or 3 more exclusive colors,
so that's a total of 5 colors.
H: I see. Nowadays, everyone is wearing masks, so transparent colors are great because they don't get too heavy.
Our PR woman is wearing the exact same ones as me.
A: I love them too. Thymelight from Le Marais is really nice.
It's my favorite.
H: Is Thymelight referring to mint?
A: No. It's thyme.
You know the herb, right? It's the one you put in pasta and such. That's what Thymelight means.
H: Dry Pampas is derived from a plant, right?
A: That's right.
Dry Pampas is really just that. If you look at Dry Pampas, it has almost the same color.
H: I could imagine from the pictures. You created a very beautiful color.
And then there's Dustlight. This color has been added.
AHLEM exclusive color Dustlight
A: Dustlight is a color I love. Don't you think it's a very nice color?
It's not an exclusive color, but... wait! Dustlight might also be an exclusive color.
There are so many that I get confused. Haha.
I think Dustlight is something we conceived, but I'll check and let you know later.
H: It looks similar to pink, but you didn't say it's pink, right?
A: I didn't say that.
Because it's a powder color. When you use a puff on your face, the powder flies in the light.
That's when that color becomes visible. My grandmother used to use a powder puff.
When she used it, the powder changed to that color in the light.
H: I see.
A: Did you understand? My grandmother used something close to skin color.
Since her skin wasn't that white, she used something pinkish.
H: That's where the name comes from. I finally understand.
H: Looking to the future, what is the next step for AHLEM?
A: Another very important thing we are working on is,
you know plastic bags, right? The plastic bags for putting glasses in.
That's already over. No more. They are not environmentally friendly and are disposable.
From now on, it will change to Peva. It might be here.
Oh, I didn't have it.
It's still in France. I'm sorry.
Anyway, it will change to Peva. Peva is an environmentally friendly material.
You can put food in it, as well as snacks, pencils, cables, etc. All glasses can be put in Peva.
Customers can take that bag home and reuse it. For us, reuse is the most important thing.
It's about sustainability.
H: Thank you. It's about time.
Let's meet again soon.
A: See you again. Thank you.
-END-
For the schedule and details of AHLEM POP-UP SHOP at Dice&Dice, click here.
Youtube
【Part 1】 The cool Venice Beach vibe expressed by the eyewear brand "AHLEM" and the relaxed sophistication of a Parisian.
【Part 2】 The cool Venice Beach vibe expressed by the eyewear brand "AHLEM" and the relaxed sophistication of a Parisian.
"AHLEM POP-UP SHOP at Dice&Dice"
Period: January 21 (Friday) to January 24 (Monday), 2022
Venue: Dice&Dice
Address: 2-1-43 Imaizumi, Chuo-ku, Fukuoka City, Fukuoka Prefecture, DXD bldg 1F
Phone number: 092-722-4877
Business hours: 13:00 to 18:00
Ahlem Manai-Platt / Ahlem Manai-Platt
A designer based in LA, originally from France, AHLEM transitioned into the world of eyewear where functionality and fashion coexist after experience with brands like Acne and Miu Miu. Her approach to design is heavily influenced by the Bauhaus movement of the early 20th century, aiming to integrate art into daily life, and is never swayed by trends. She always aims for simple, comfortable, and beautiful designs. From the prototype stage at her debut, her designs were highly praised by the buyers at Colette in Paris, leading to their introduction. After receiving acclaim from renowned stores in LA, such as Fred Segal and other famous eyewear shops, she decided to move to LA, where she had long admired. Pursuing simplicity and beauty, functionality, and subtly integrated delicate details, her designs embody the spirit of a French woman combined with the relaxed atmosphere of LA. AHLEM, who loves Paris, draws strong inspiration from the architecture and people of Paris, naming her models after streets and areas in Paris. Each piece is meticulously handcrafted by artisans in Oyonnax, a region famous for eyewear production in France.
GLOBE SPECS / GLOBE SPECS
GLOBE SPECS opened its first store, "GLOBE SPECS Shibuya," in 1998 as a shop introducing various eyewear brands from around the world. Currently, it operates stores in Shibuya, Daikanyama, and Kyoto. While continuing to pursue the basic quality and technology of eyewear that allows for comfortable viewing and wearing, they also propose elements of "fun, joy, and fashion." They contract with brands from around the world, including the US and Europe, and also act as the general import agency in Japan. GLOBE SPECS is a company that actively incorporates young and new brands if they share a worldview, continually challenging the possibilities of eyewear.